Red Rock Spire Climbing in Sedona
We have provided you with descriptions of some of the ‘Classic’ spire routes in Sedona. Climbing a Red Rock Spire is always a very unique experience! Our years of guiding and experience allow a safe and memorable climb that you will always remember. While the summit is a great part of the day’s objective remember to take time to enjoy the journey. You can bet that sitting on top of a Red Rock Spire will put a smile on your face! Like most desert climbing there are challenges. For many this is where much of the reward is found- moving through the challenges.
Sedona rock is know for loose rock, flaring cracks, hard approaches, and plants that can rip the flesh off of a Javelina— yet for those who have come to love this wild environment it is all part of the experience. While Sedona does have a reputation for soft rock fortunately all of the routes listed below have been climbed many times removing most of the loose holds. But beware the nature of Sedona rock is constantly changing. A climb rated 5.7 can move up to 5.9 after that key hold breaks off- So be prepared, and check in with the local experts who are knowledgeable of current route conditions.
Additionally, there have been over 100 new routes established in the past two years. Many of the newer routes are in the 5.10 range and are challenging crack routes, many of high quality. One guarantee you do get in Sedona, it is often sunny and it is one of the most scenic areas in the world.
Click the Routes below for descriptions.
Streaker
Spire
The Mace
Coyote Spire
Dr. Rubo's
Oak Creek Spire
Queen Victoria Spire
Bell Rock
Four
Flying Apaches
Rating- 5.7 or 5.8 -3 Pitches- 250 ft.
Overview- Considered one of the best introductions to Sedona routes at a moderate grade; this route offers an enjoyable 40 minute hike in one of Sedona’s most scenic areas. This first pitch is a very fun traversing pitch that leads to a small ledge with great exposure. From the first belay, a tough start out and into a thin flared crack that requires precise footwork. The third pitch has a few aesthetic moves then moves into a steep hand jam, which is considered ‘awkward’ by many. A short chimney takes you to the top! Great summit, 400 ft. off the valley floor, two rappels to the ground. (Note you can use one rope to rappel this route!)
When and How Long- This is a good summer route, starting in the morning on the north face and working you’re way west- General time allowed is 3-5 hours. There is also a 5- pitch option starting on the west face.
Rating- 5.9+ 5 pitches
Overview- The infamous Mace. I have heard many accounts and read many descriptions of this climb- the general view is that it is classic, hard, weird, and if it is your first desert climb it will keep you on edge! Personally, I agree with other locals that it is not THE classic route of Sedona. Admittedly the step across between the two towers and the jump back are very unique- unique like being in a train wreck is unique. The jump is a very hard landing! The crux is strange; it does not feel like 5.9+ when you are there. I have heard quite a few stories of folks having to step on the bolt to make the crux move, obviously this pulls from the quality of any climb. On my first climb of the Mace, I reached up into the crux jam that was filled with bird ca ca; this also seemed to bump up the rating. In some ways, one of the more enjoyable aspects of this climb is hiking back to the car, looking up and realizing that you just climbed something that looks impossible! First done in 1957 before cam units- very impressive! See below for more descriptions.
When and How Long- The Mace is also a good summer route as you are mostly on the north-east face. The west face of the Cathedral rock area has some good one and two pitch routes as well! Generally the Mace is 5 hours to full day from car to car.
Back
to top...Click here for more photos and a third party description of the Mace
Rating- 5.10 -5 Pitches
Overview- A very fine route that went up in 2002, congratulations to John Burcham for spotting this one! Undoubtedly destined to become a Sedona Classic. Although each pitch is fairly sustained for the grade the crux moves are not typical Sedona, you can expect straight forward jamming and some fun face holds to mix it up.
When and How Long- This is a good winter route, start in the morning on the south slabs. General time allowed 4-8 hours. One of my top favorites!
Third party description of Coyote Spire
Dr. Rubo’s Wild Ride
a.k.a Summit Block Rock
Rating- 5.9 -4 Pitches
Overview- A
great route with a variety of challenges.
Great climb for sun lovers with a southern and western exposure.
This route starts with an funky 5.8+ pitch that is 60ft. If
you get spit off on the first pitch it may be worth reconsidering this
route for another day. Second pitch goes at 5.9 into a sustained and
perfect hand crack, through a small roof, and onto some side
pulls for about 120 ft. (you can run pitch one and two together
as one 200 ft.) Third pitch is a very exciting traverse section with big 
exposure! Rated at 5.7 The
final pitch is fairly short, with a 5.9 mantel move and then a few face move
to the summit make this a Sedona favorite!
You
can rappel this route with one double rope rappel, then quickly hike back to your
packs at the base.
When and How Long- This is a good winter route starting in the afternoon.
General time allowed 3-6 hours. Click photos for full view
Rating- 5.9+
-4 Pitches
Overview- One
of my favorite routes, providing a bit of everything! Laybacks, hand
cracks, chimney’s and yet another jump across! It
has sustained pitches at 5.8+, 5.9+, 5.9, and 5.7 with a jump that
is more psychologically challenging than the Mace! A
very interesting summit as well. Three
rappels on new rap bolts make this route a great day out!
When and How Long- Great summer route, all north facing. This is also known locally as the Rabbit Ears.
Access- There are currently access issues with the Oak Creek spire, it is best to not park in the Pine Valley sub division. Instead park at the entrance to Pine Valley at the trail head and hike to the east around the neighborhood. You cannot miss the Rabbit ears as you get closer. You should hit a trail that will take you to the main wash below and east of the spire. Head up the wash looking for a cairn on the left that will take a indistinct trail up talus directly towards the north face of the formation.
Rating- 5.7 5.9 -3 Pitches
Overview- A really fun route, with enjoyable variety and excellent views. More enjoyable climbing moves than the Streaker Spire. Located off Schnebly Hill road this spire sits up high on a ridge line in an amazing setting. The approach is an 45min.- 1 hour approach. A good hike, climb, and a very small summit make this a unique day out. There are some other single pitch moderate routes on the south face to finish out your day as well.
When and How Long- This is a good route in the spring and fall. With the approach you want to allow for a 4-5 hour day.
photos of climb on Queen Victoria
Rating- 5.8 -1 or 2 Pitches
Overview- Some funky climbing, yet Bell Rock is one of the most recognized formations in Sedona and another classic summit! A quick approach and a few fun moves make this a worthy objective!
When and How Long- This is also a good summer route, and makes for a great afternoon climb if you are short on time. In the heat of summer we often leave at 4 p.m. and allow 2-4 hours total. You can add to the day with some dramatic overhanging rappels off the south face. Back to top...
Photo from the summit of Bell Rock.
While this is not a spire route, it is considered to one of the best new 'moderate routes' in Sedona. Again John Burcham has found an excellent line up an improbable face. This route is on a massive formation called the Transit. A 45 minute approach brings you to the route which follows the aręte of the formation and allows great views in both directions. This is a five pitch route rated, 5.9, 5.8, 5.8, 5.8 and 5.9. This route is safely bolted with good belay stances. Route finding can be a challenge, so keep your eye out for the next bolt or anchor. One single and three double rope rappels, being careful of snags while pulling your ropes.
The Fourth pitch of the Flying Apaches
Most tower climbs are guided by lead guide and owner Glenn Slattery. Glenn has introduced climbing to over 1000 people. During the past 15 years Glenn has made over 50 spire ascents, big wall climbs, and first ascents. The desert, and desert climbing is his true passion. Glenn has been a guide for Exum Guides in Utah, The Colorado Outward Bound School, and Adventures International. He has taught climbing throughout the Western U.S. in addition to guiding high altitude peaks in the Alaska and South America. Currently, Glenn is a certified Emergency Medical Technician, Member and Rope Rescue instructor for the Sedona Fire Department, assistant instructor for Ropes that Rescue, and member of the Arizona Department of Public Safety Helicopter Rescue Team.
For
more descriptions of Spire climbs in Sedona click
the Gecko!
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